The Boom of the Rías Altas, Galicia's New Tourist Attraction: «The Beaches Are Better and the Water Is Less Cold»

There’s plenty of summer beyond Cangas, Nigrán, and even Sanxenxo. There’s a lot of coastline in Galicia to enjoy beyond the Costa da Morte. Many locals, as well as tourists from other regions and countries, have already realized this. We head north, to the far north. The Rías Altas are on their way to becoming Galicia's new tourist attraction, and also a refuge for those escaping an increasingly hot world. This peaceful destination boasts postcard-worthy beaches. More hotels are opening in this area, and beach clubs are popping up, making it a must-visit spot, with social media spreading the word. International media outlets have already highlighted the beauty of this destination, which is undoubtedly on the rise. The compass points upward and stops at one of Galicia's top coordinates: A Coruña.

The city sells itself, but so does its surrounding area. Just ask the people of Oleiros, partially bathed by the waters of the O Burgo estuary, one of the golden miles of its interurban belt and one of the most sought-after beach spots. Santa Cristina, Bastiagueiro, and Mera are among the beaches where traffic jams are almost guaranteed during the summer season, partly because they offer a sea of possibilities, surrounded by services, restaurants, and a growing number of hotels.

Heading further north into Ferrolterra, we encounter the overwhelming success of the Betanzos and Ares estuaries. The beaches of Miño, Perbes, and A Madgalena (Cabanas) form an unbeatable trio that fills these towns to capacity during the summer, attracting not only locals from A Coruña and Ferrol but also foreign tourists. On every beach we visited along this northern route, we encountered foreign tourists from various countries. For example, at Miño’s Playa Grande, we overheard Italian accents. Juan, a Coruña native, and his Italian partner were strolling early in the morning along this beach — which stretches almost 1.5 kilometers.

Juan, originally from A Coruña, spends his summers in Miño. «I’ve been coming here every summer for three or four weeks since I was born», he says. They know virtually the entire Galician coast, but they prefer the northern one: «We come to Playa Grande in Miño because we love walking along it. I also like other beaches, such as Doniños (Ferrol), but the advantage of this one is that it has no waves, so I feel at ease when our daughter goes swimming». When asked to choose, he’s clear: «I think the beaches of the Rías Altas are better; I prefer them, and the water is less cold than in the Rías Baixas... although there are fewer sunny days».

From Miño, we head into the Ferrol coastline. Here we find one of the region’s most tranquil and sought-after beaches. A Madgalena, located in the municipality of Cabanas, features a lush pine forest and several beachside dining options, including Los Pinares, the only Galician beach bar to make it onto Forbes' prestigious list. The beach’s proximity to the medieval town of Pontedeume makes it even more of a perfect tourist destination. We pass Ares, another popular coastal town in Ferrolterra, and Mugardos, the cinematic destination where Almodóvar found the perfect setting for Julieta and immortalized Redes. Eventually, we reach the three pillars of Ferrol’s beach tourism: the beaches of Doniños, Esmelle, and O Vilar (Cobas).

Malibu or Valdoviño?

But we continue up the Rías Altas toward the north to find Galicia’s very own California. Valdoviño becomes one of the area’s top tourist destinations in the summer. Visitors flock here for a peaceful, uncrowded destination with spectacular waves and beaches. One knows they’ve arrived at Ferrolterra’s Malibu when they see the towering palm trees of A Frouxeira Beach, where the lagoon of the same name empties into the sea, accompanied by a local legend about the healing powers of its waters and stunning sunsets. This beach, named one of the 14 best in Galicia by National Geographic this year, is where we meet Zoe, a German who’s been living in Ourense for a year and a half. She works as a co-pilot for Laza’s Wildfire Reinforcement Brigade (Brif) and came to Valdoviño with her mother, who was visiting, to explore the Galician coast during a few days off.

«We had traveled up the coast of Portugal and today we came here; tomorrow we head back to Ourense», says the tourist, impressed by the well-preserved surroundings: «This place is spectacular, and it's so clean. Plus, you can watch surfers catching waves in the sea». And indeed, we’re in Galicia’s surf capital. Valdoviño’s other major beach, Pantín, lends its name to the championship that draws the world’s best surfers each year, and it’s happening this weekend.

How did a German living in Verín choose the Rías Altas, and not a more popular beach destination, to explore the Galician coast? «At my base, there’s a commander from here, and he recommended it. I was surprised not just by the landscape, but also by the places where you can grab a drink with these incredible views», says Zoe. The previous day, she visited Doniños Beach, but when forced to choose, she picks Valdoviño «because it has more life». Proof of this is that she’s speaking to us from the swings at Tótem, one of the trendy spots right on the beachfront, Ibiza-style.

We leave behind Cedeira, Cariño, and Ortigueira and arrive at the true north: the Estaca de Bares cape, the northernmost point of Galicia, where a tongue of land stretches out into the sea, blending the waters of the Atlantic Ocean with those of the Cantabrian Sea. Many come here, increasingly so, to witness this meeting of waters, as well as to explore the Rías Altas. Joaquín Rubal, president of the Professional Association of Tourism Guides of Galicia (APIT), confirms that the tourist train that runs through the area is the most in-demand by far. He’s referring to the «Tren de los Faros» (Lighthouse Train), one of the 14 rail routes promoted by Turismo de Galicia and Renfe. «It’s the most popular one. The only one with six departures and the highest demand. There are others covering the Rías Baixas, Ribeira Sacra, pazos, and gardens... But the number one, without a doubt, and the only one where it's almost impossible to get a seat, is the Ferrol-Viveiro train, the Rías Altas route. It’s been sold out since June», Rubal explains.

Cape Ortegal, Estaca de Bares, San Andrés de Teixido, and the Loiba bench are some of the stops. «And now there’s also the Cabo Ortegal Geopark, which has been a UNESCO Global Geopark since last year, along with the Vixía de Herbeira cliffs... The scenery is truly spectacular, with the O Barqueiro estuary, Viveiro, O Vicedo... and it’s still relatively unknown», Rubal adds.

The Caribbean of Lugo

We now arrive at the Mariña Lucense, the other half of a boom that’s even spread across the ocean. So much so that this year, it was a finalist in another National Geographic selection, this time for Spain’s best beach destinations, alongside the Costa Brava, Fuerteventura, and Asturias' green coast, in a competition won by Menorca. National Geographic highlighted Lugo's Caribbean for its uncrowded beaches, natural landscapes, the globally renowned As Catedrais Beach, and the O Fuciño do Porco coastal trail, along with festivals, popular celebrations, and its sea-to-table cuisine. The travel edition of the same international publication highlighted Xilloi Beach, in O Vicedo, as one of Spain’s best, with views of Bares Harbor.

The nickname «Caribbean of Lugo» makes perfect sense when visiting these turquoise waters. Even more so when reaching its «porcelain beach», known for its dazzling white sand, reminiscent of a Dominican postcard. O Caolín is named for its high content of kaolin material, used to make ceramics, which gives the sand its snowy color. On this small cove, just 200 meters long, with calm, crystal-clear waters that are slightly warmer than usual for these latitudes — the waters of the Lugo coast are Galicia's warmest — we find Sofía and Estrella basking in the sun. Like them, more and more people are discovering one of Galicia’s most paradisiacal beaches.

This growing fervor for the Mariña Lucense is reflected not only in media coverage but also in the area’s economic development, with new hotels promoting relaxed beachfront tourism. Hotel A Ladela, which opened just a year ago with views of Area Grande Beach in San Román, is one such example.

Foz, just a little further along the coast, is another major beach destination in Lugo. The faces of happiness on the large family posing on Llas Beach — originally from Moldova, they moved to Mondoñedo, and they clearly know the area well, as they’re escaping the crowds of A Rapadoira — perfectly illustrate what a good summer means. A summer in Lugo's Caribbean cannot end without visiting Ribadeo and As Catedrais Beach, which needs no further introduction.

Paradise, as we’ve already said, is in the far north.

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